The Truth of Water – Answers

Ron from California writes:

I am looking to have the safest and healthest pool water system that does not use chlorine?

Hi Ron

My expertise is in once through potable water systems. I don’t have much experience with pool water.

I do understand that it’s very unusual to have pools without some sort of secondary disinfectant in it. This is because pools are open to the atmosphere and environment and without a residual disinfectant they would very quickly become cesspools of a very active ecosystem, including things like e.coli (very common to soil, think of your bare feet on your lawn and garden then introducing it into the water) and other micro organisms that could be a potential threat.

I understand that some people can have a recirculation system through an ultraviolet disinfection device. I understand that systems like these drastically reduce the amount of disinfectant you add to your pool, but you still have to shock your system on occasion with a disinfectant, so biofilm doesn’t start growing on your underwater surfaces.

I wish I could help you further, but as I’ve said I’m out of my element and don’t want to lead you down the wrong path.

I encourage you to seek pool experts, either online or in your area. Perhaps you could go to your local pool store, see what he recommends, than ask for a list of references so you can call around and get the opinions of others who have pool and have used those systems.

I hope I’ve been of help.

Many people are not on municipal water systems.  They rely on wells or other sources to supply their homes with water.  Some people are lucky enough to have good drinking water treatment systems, or have or know those who have the knowledge to put one together.  For others, searching for an appropriate water treatment system can be a nightmare, with the myriad of choices, technologies and companies to choose from.

The following is a basic guide to help you understand what to do and your first steps when selecting treatment from your home.

1.It all starts from the source

The first rule for water treatment is having the best and cleanest possible source.  Choosing the best source will mean it will be less likely contaminants are in your supply, or are able to contaminate your supply. This means less treatment and it will be much easier on the treatment system that you have.

If you have an older well, it may be time to upgrade.  Older dug wells are shallow and susceptible to microbiological contamination and surface water run off (which can carry E.Coli, pesticides, sodium, VOC’s and a whole host of other contaminants from the surface).

Newer, drilled wells are the best solution.  Your well driller will know the optimum depth for your area to get the most and cleanest water.  As well, new drilled wells combine elements such as stainless steel screens, submersible pumps, well casings and an annular seal to ensure that surface water does not contaminate your ground water.

If you’re unsure of the viability of your well, call your local well driller for a consultation.

2. What’s in your water?

Many companies that sell home water treatment will have you believe that anything and everything is in your well water, just to sell you equipment you may not need.  This is untrue.  It all depends on the type of well you have, the type of overburden (or bedrock) it’s in, how far down it goes, how close you are to possible sources of contamination and the geographical area you are in.

Contact the local branch of the USEPA, a Ministry of the Environment if you’re in Canada, or your local municipality.  They will have an idea what to look for based on your local, and can point you towards the appropriate accredited drinking water laboratory. From there, most laboratories have water testing packages tailored to your locality and can give you a snapshot of what may be in your water that’s harmful and how much is there.  From there, you can go about selecting the appropriate treatment equipment.

3. Health risks first, aesthetic problems second

When you size up and design your treatment system, your first priority should be health risks.  Take care of aesthetic problems second.  Your treatment system should provide appropriate filtration for any sediment that might be in your water.  This can be simple or complex, depending on how dirty your water is.  After making the water clear, that’s when your disinfection processes can work. Both chemical and other (ultraviolet light) depend on clean clear water to work effectively.  A disinfection barrier is imperative to ensure you screen out any virus’s, bacteria, or protozoa that may be in your water or may find their way into your water supply.

Any other issues your laboratory detects, such as chemical, can be dealt with as well. Once the safety issues are considered, then things such as hardness or taste and odour should be dealt with, as long as it does not interfere with the safety aspects of treatment.

4. Don’t buy cheap crap.

Just like anything else, you get what you pay for. If what they are selling seems too cheap, looks flimsy, and doesn’t give you a good feeling, don’t buy it. This equipment is meant to protect your drinking water, and needs to be of good quality and effective at it’s job.

5. Don’t get complacent with Maintenance

If you have a treatment system, it needs maintenance just like any other mechanical machine.  Many home treatment systems are designed to be low on maintenance, but it’s important you don’t skimp.  If you don’t know how or don’t have time to learn it, hire somebody on a service contract. Performing the necessary preventative maintenance will go a long way to ensuring your system protects your drinking water at all times, and lasts a long time.

6. Ask around

Your neighbors and friends in the area are in the same boat as you.  Find out what they have done and listen to them. They will have similar water quality to you and may have had experience with what treatment equipment to get and what not to get.

When it comes to home treatment, knowing what to do can be a daunting task. But with a little foresight and seeking the right knowledge, getting the best system for you can be easier than you think.

Your don’t have a municipal water supply to your house.  The water comes from a well, and you’ve decided to protect the health of yourself and your family by installing a water treatment system.  You’ve done some research and have decided you want an ultraviolet light treatment system, because it uses no chemicals.  So how do you choose the most appropriate system for you?

Your very first condition is to find a system that provides a minimum safe dosage of disinfection.  After all, you want to make sure that you kill any organisms that might be in your water with a safe margin of error.  The way this is accomplished is by third party validation.  There are companies out there that test U.V. devices to make sure they can provide the most appropriate dosage. The strictest of these third parties, and the one that Canadian and USA governments base their regulations on is NSF, or the National Sanitation Foundation.  After extensive testing, NSF has come out with a standard for U.V. disinfection devices. This standard is NSF 55 Class A protocol.  NSF 55 Class A tells us that a minimum safe dosage for U.V. systems is 40 mj/cm2.

But that dosage is not just dependent on the ability of the unit to provide it.  It is also very dependent on the conditions of your home and the water supply.  There are two things that you must know when going shopping for a U.V. unit:

1. Your maximum flow rate
2. The U.V.T. (ultraviolet transmittance) of your water.

U.V. dosage is calculated by the energy of the lamps, your maximum flow rate, and your UVT, or how much U.V. light energy can pass through the water.

Estimating Flow Rate:

It is unlikely that every single tap and shower will be on and every toilet in the house will be flushed at once.  The larger your family is, the more water will be used.  To estimate the flow rate, simply observe your families habits on the busiest days of water usage.  Take a note pad and figure out when the most water is being used.  When you’ve done that, it’s time to see how much water flows.  For each outlet, turn it on and let it fill a measuring cup while timing it.  If it takes 10 seconds to fill up a 1 liter measuring cup, then your device can go through 6 liters per minute.  Add all this up to come up with a maximum flow rate.

Finding out your UVT:

This is not something you can do yourself. Also, it’s important to note that sometimes when water looks clear, it can have dissolved minerals and organics that can absorb U.V. light.  You need to send a raw water sample (raw water means before any existing filter or treatment devices) to a laboratory so they can test it for you.  This is a simple test and shouldn’t cost more than $20.00 to complete.  If you don’t know of any labs or are having trouble locating them in your phone book, contact your local health unit or municipality. They should be able to provide one for you.

Now you have the information you need to go shopping for a proper unit.  Don’t be afraid to ask questions, and don’t let the salesman tell you that you don’t need a dosage that high.  In most cases, the person selling you the U.V. system is just a salesman. While he may know a good deal about water treatment equipment, he does not have the knowledge, expertise or experience of the people at a company like NSF.  The NSF 55 Class A standard was derived from testing using live bacteria, and that is how they came up with this minimum safe dosage.  Tell the salesman your U.V.T, your maximum flow rate and the dosage you need, and insist you look at the specifications.  If your UVT is 75% and your flow rate is 60 liters a minute, and the specifications of the UV system say 50 liters per minute and require a UVT of 95%, that system is not adequate for your needs.

Other Requirements:

All U.V. lamps have a lifespan.  Most reputable manufacturers tell you to replace the lamps once per year.  All U.V. lamps start off strong when you first fire them up and slowly get weaker over that one year span.  You should ensure the manufacturer has based the minimum U.V. dosage at the end of lamp life, not at the beginning.

A U.V. system produces heat and will “cook” water just like a kettle if it is let stand too long.  And just like a kettle, some of the minerals in your water will come out as a white flaky material.  No doubt you’ve cleaned out your kettle and seen the hardness and limescale build up.  This can happen to your U.V. if there are periods where you let it sit for a long time, or leave it on while you go away on vacation. There are ways of mitigating this problem, and make sure you ask the salesman how this can be prevented. Remember, if the U.V. system is coated with white scale on the inside, non of the U.V. light will be able to do any disinfection.

Some U.V. systems come with alarms.  This can tell you if the lamp has degraded, your one year is up, or if the system is fouled with lime scale.  A good U.V. system will have a sensor that can determine these things and an alarm to alert you that the water is not being properly disinfected.  A high quality system will come with a shut off valve that will not allow any water to your house if it is not properly disinfected.

Remember, when it comes to the saftey of the water you and your family drinks, not all U.V. systems are created equal.  Make sure you have the right one for your needs, and you can rest assured your water will be safe to drink.